Thursday, December 31, 2015

Sound Reactive EL Wire Costume


Bring science fiction to life with a personalized light-up outfit! EL wire is a delightfully futuristic-looking luminescent wire that has the added benefit of staying cool, making it ideal for wearable projects. Combining sensors and a microcontroller with EL wire allow for a wide range of feedback and control options.

This project uses the SparkFun sound detector and the EL Sequencer to flash the EL wire to the rhythm of ambient sound, including music, clapping, and talking.


Materials

Electronics



El Wire comes in a variety of colors, so pick your favorite(s)!

Costume


  • Article(s) of clothing
For a Tron-esque look, go for stretchy black material. Yoga pants and other athletic gear work great!
  • Belt
  • Old jacket with large pocket, preferably zippered or otherwise sealable.
The pocket will house the electronics. If you intend to wear the costume outdoors in potentially wet weather, choose a pocket that is waterproof (i.e. cut a pocket from a waterproof jacket).
  • Piece of packing foam or styrofoam (to insulate the sound detector).

 

Tools


Build it! Pt. 1

CAUTION: Although it is low current, EL wire runs on high voltage AC (100 VAC). There are exposed connections on the EL Sequencer board so BE CAREFUL when handling the board. Always double (and triple) check that the power switch is OFF before touching any part of the board. For final projects, it is recommended to coat all exposed connections in epoxy, hot glue, electrical tape, or other insulating material.

1. Test EL Sequencer with EL Wire.
Connect the inverter, battery, and at least one strand of EL wire to the EL Sequencer. (Note that the two black wires of the inverter correspond to the AC side.)
Be sure that the EL Wire lights up and blinks when you power the EL Sequencer on battery mode.


2. Solder header pins onto 5V FTDI pinholes on the EL Sequencer and onto the VCC, ground, and A2 input pins.









3. Solder header pins to the sound detector.







4. Connect sound detector to EL Sequencer via female-to-female breadboard wires (or solder wire onto header pins).
Connect the sound detector VCC and ground pins to the VCC and ground pins on the EL Sequencer. Connect the sound detector gate output to the A2 input pin on the EL Sequencer. If you are using the envelope and/or audio output signals, connect these to pins A3 and A4 on the EL Sequencer (more on this in the Program It! section).




Build it! Pt. 2


1. Make a protective casing for the sound detector using packing foam or styrofoam to prevent jostling or other physical vibrations (aka collisions) from triggering it.

Place sound detector on top of foam, outline the board with a pen, and cut out a hole in the foam for the detector to fit snugly inside. Also recommended to epoxy the wires onto the foam (but not the sound detector board).
















2. Cut out a pocket from the jacket and sew onto the belt.




3. Put belt on, connect EL Wire to EL Sequencer, and place EL Sequencer in pocket pouch. Determine approximate placement of each EL wire strand based on location of electronics.
















Build it! Pt. 3 


1. Mark and/or adhere the base of the EL wire JST connector onto clothing, allowing the full length of the connector to flex. Be sure that the JST connector can easily reach the EL Sequencer.









2. Starting at the basse of the JST connector, attach EL wire strands to your chosen article of clothing.

Sew EL wire onto clothing using strong thread or dental floss, or use an appropriate fabric adhesive.
Prior to adhering the EL wire, it is recommended to use safety pins to determine placement of the EL wire on each article of clothing while you are wearing it. EL wire is flexible but not so stretchy, so give yourself some wiggle room.

It is also recommended to use separate EL wire strands on different articles of clothing to facilitate the process of taking it on/off.













Program it!  

1. Connect EL Sequencer to computer via 5V FTDI BOB or cable. 

2. Program the EL Sequencer using the Arduino platform; the EL Sequencer runs an ATmega 328p at 8 MHz and 3.3V.

3. Determine how you want to use the sound detector output(s) to control the EL wire. The sample program below utilizes the gate channel output to turn on the EL wire if there is a sound detected.

Sample Program:
// Sound Activated EL Wire Costume<br>// Blink EL Wire to music and other ambient sound.
//JenFoxBot
void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);  
  // The EL channels are on pins 2 through 9
  // Initialize the pins as outputs
  pinMode(2, OUTPUT);  // channel A  
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);  // channel B   
  pinMode(4, OUTPUT);  // channel C
  pinMode(5, OUTPUT);  // channel D    
  pinMode(6, OUTPUT);  // channel E
  pinMode(7, OUTPUT);  // channel F
  pinMode(8, OUTPUT);  // channel G
  pinMode(9, OUTPUT);  // channel H
//Initialize input pins on EL Sequencer
  pinMode(A2, INPUT);
}
void loop() 
{
  int amp = digitalRead(A2);
    
  //If Gate output detects sound, turn EL Wire on
  if(amp == HIGH){
    
    digitalWrite(2, HIGH); //turn EL channel on
    digitalWrite(3, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(4, HIGH);
    delay(100);
  }
  
    digitalWrite(2, LOW); //turn EL channel off
    digitalWrite(3, LOW);
    digitalWrite(4, LOW);
  
}
 
This program is just one example of what is possible with the SparkFun sound detector. Depending on your needs, different responses can be achieved by using the "envelope" and "audio" outputs of the sound detector. The EL Sequencer can individually control up to 8 different EL wire strands using the three sound detector output signals, so there are tons of possiblities to customize your sound-activated outfit!

More information about the sound detector output signals:
The gate channel output is a digital signal that is high when a sound is detected and low when it is quiet. The envelope channel output traces the amplitude of the sound, and the audio output is the voltage directly from the microphone.



In the photo provided, the red trace corresponds to the gate signal output, the light green trace corresponds to the envelope signal output, and the dark green trace corresponds to the audio signal output.


Test, Secure, & Show Off!


Connect all components to the EL Sequencer (inverter, battery, sound detector) and place in belt pouch. Turn the system on, make some noise (e.g. clapping, snapping, or music) and check that the EL wire flashes when there is a sound.

If the outfit works as expected, secure all connections by coating them in a (thin) layer of epoxy. Let dry for at least 24 hours. Epoxy is a very permanent adhesive, so if you want to reuse any of the components, try other adhesives like hot glue or electrical tape (less secure, but adjustable and removable).

You can reduce the overall strain on individual connections by ensuring that wires are securely fastened to the belt and/or pouch approximately one inch (1") from all connections. The goal is to allow the EL wire to flex while keeping electrical connections rigid, as the connections are the most likely point of breakage.

Wear your one-of-a-kind, high-tech outfit and go show it off to the world!

Monday, November 9, 2015

EL Wire Light Up Dog Harness

Whether it’s to keep Fido (or in my case, Marley) visible on an adventure or as an awesome all-year-round costume, a light up dog harness is an excellent accessory for your favorite pup.

 
 EL wire is a great option for wearable lights. It stays cool, is flexible, and comes in lots of different colors. This design uses the SparkFun EL Sequencer to automatically turn on EL wire when it is sufficiently dark outside so you don't have to worry
about locating Mr. Dog to turn the system on.

Here's a video tutorial for this project.



Recommended Reading

If you are new to electronics, EL wire, or the EL Sequencer, or would like more information on the main components in this project, check out this tutorial.

As this design also uses a lithium ion battery, I also recommend reading this tutorial to give you an overview on proper care and handling of lithium batteries.

 

Materials

Electronics

  • EL Wire
    • EL wire comes in variety of colors, pick your favorite!

Harness Materials

  • Dog harness
    • A vest or backpack will also work.
  • Waterproof jacket with pocket(s)
  • Optional: Tupperware or other sealable plastic container

 

Tools

  • Safety goggles
  • Soldering Iron
  • Wire Cutter/Stripper
  • Epoxy (waterproof)
  • Scissors
  • Needle + thread OR fabric adhesive
  • Optional: Velcro

 

Build it! Pt. 1

**CAUTION:** Although it is low current, EL wire runs on high voltage AC (100 VAC). There are exposed connections on the EL Sequencer board so BE CAREFUL when handling the board. Always double (and triple) check that the power switch is OFF before touching any part of the board. For final projects, it is recommended to coat all exposed connections in epoxy, hot glue, electrical tape, or other insulating material.


1. Test the EL Sequencer with EL wire.
Connect EL Wire, inverter, and battery to EL sequencer.
Turn on power switch and check that the EL wire turns on (should be blinking). You can connect, and control, up to 8 different strands of EL wire.

2. Solder header pins onto 5V FTDI pinholes on the EL Sequencer.
3. Solder header pins to the "GND," "VCC," and "A2" pinholes EL Sequencer (right side).






















 
4. Solder male end of breadboard wires to ambient light sensor. Coat exposed metal on the sensor in epoxy (do not coat actual sensor).
Note: Recommended to solder the pins on the bottom of the sensor so that the sensor can more easily be attached to the harness (found this out the hard way..).


 

 




Build it! Pt. 2 



1. Attach EL Wire to harness.
Sew EL wire onto harness with dental floss for a strong, durable bond. Can also use an appropriate fabric adhesive.

For straps/buckles: leave about 1" of unattached EL wire on either side of the strap/buckle.



You can either wrap the ELwire for its entire length, or cut it and insulate the ends.











2. Make a durable pouch for the electronics.
For a waterproof pouch, cut out a pocket in a waterproof jacket. I also included a small tupperware container to house the electronics in the pouch to further insulate and protect them from weather and dog conditions.











Build it! Pt. 3

1. Attach electronics pouch to harness.
Sew pouch onto top side of harness, or wherever is comfortable and practical for your pup. Recommended to put harness on dog to find a suitable location for the pouch.














2. Cut small holes on underside of pouch for the EL wire JST connector and the light sensor wires.








3. Attach and secure light sensor to harness. Recommended to put harness on your dog and mark location for light sensor so that it faces upward.
There was an ideal flap in the rainjacket pocket for me to cut a hole, push the sensor through, and epoxy the other side. You can also use velcro or sew the light sensor onto the pocket or harness, just be sure that it stays stationary and won't get covered when the dog is moving.







4. If using tupperware, cut or drill holes in tupperware for EL wire JST connector and light sensor wires.
If you are not using tuperware, it is recommended to cushion the electronics and/or epoxy all connections (except the JST connectors) to protect them from your dog's antics.



5. Connect EL wire and light sensor to EL Sequencer (through holes in the tuperware), then epoxy the holes to keep wires in place and maintain a waterproof seal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Program It!

1. Connect EL Sequencer to computer via 5V FTDI BOB or cable. 

2. Program the EL Sequencer using the Arduino platform; the EL Sequencer runs an ATmega 328p at 8 MHz and 3.3V. 


3. Write a program to read in the analog value of the ambient light sensor, turn on the appropriate EL wire channels at a value that corresponds to low light, and turn off once the light sensor value is above the low light threshold.

Here's a sample program with a preset light threshold:
// EL Wire Dog Harness Program
// Turn EL wire on when ambient light is low.
// JenFoxBot
// Based on test sketch by Mike Grusin, SparkFun Electronics
void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);  
  // The EL channels are on pins 2 through 9
  // Initialize the pins as outputs
  pinMode(2, OUTPUT);  // channel A  
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);  // channel B   
  pinMode(4, OUTPUT);  // channel C
  pinMode(5, OUTPUT);  // channel D    
  pinMode(6, OUTPUT);  // channel E
  pinMode(7, OUTPUT);  // channel F
  pinMode(8, OUTPUT);  // channel G
  pinMode(9, OUTPUT);  // channel H
  // We also have two status LEDs, pin 10 on the EL Sequencer, 
  // and pin 13 on the Arduino itself
  pinMode(10, OUTPUT);     
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(A2, INPUT);  
}
void loop() 
{
  int x,status;
  
  //If ambient lighting is too low, turn on EL wire
  if(analogRead(A2) < 50){
    digitalWrite(2, HIGH); //turn EL channel on
    delay(1000); //wait 1 second
    
    //Keep EL wire on until light sensor reading is greater than 50
    if(analogRead(A2) > 50){
      digitalWrite(2, LOW); //turn EL channel off
      delay(10);
    }
    
    Serial.println(analogRead(A2)); // Use this to check value of ambient light 
    
    digitalWrite(10, status);   // blink both status LEDs
    digitalWrite(13, status);
  }
}
 
4. Check that the EL wire turns on when the ambient light is low, and turns off in bright light. 

Test it and Put it to Work!

Place EL Sequencer, inverter, and battery inside the pouch (and tupperware). Connect all components to the EL Sequencer and turn it on using battery power. Test it in low and bright light to ensure that it functions properly.

If system works as expected, put on dog and go exploring!

As an added bonus, you can use the electronics pouch to store other small, non-magnetic items. Enjoy!







Monday, September 28, 2015

Simple Leaf Blower Hovercraft

***

What better way to finish off the summer than a relaxing hover to the park?
This is an overview of a simple, inexpensive design that can be built for less than $10 if you are resourceful (and already have a leaf blower). Maximum cost, excluding the leaf blower, is about $50.
Here's a video of the hovercraft in action!
Recommended to use a gas powered leaf blower if you want to travel somewhere beyond your garage or workshop.
--------

Step 1: Materials

       
   

-- Circular piece of wood for hovercraft body w/ ~ 2 ft. diameter
Minimum area of ~ 10 sq. ft. (1 sq. meter).
-- Small circular piece of wood for anchor w/ ~ 6 in. diameter
-- Tarp
-- Cardboard
-- Optional: Propulsion mechanism (fan or PVC piping)

----------

Step 2: Tools



-- Leaf blower w/ output ~ 200 MPH*
A gas-powered leaf blower works best for this project and lets you travel anywhere, but any leaf blower will work as long as the output is powerful enough.
-- Staple gun*
-- Jigsaw* + safety equipment
-- Power Drill
-- Scissors and/or Blade Knife
-- Duct Tape
-- Sandpaper*
-- Screws* (~4)
*Not pictured

---------

Step 3: Procure Base


The area of the base of the hovercraft should be at least 1 square meter (10.8 sq. feet). This will support about 220 lbs of weight.
Wood is the best material for the base. There are lots of ways to source wood cheaply or for free. Mine was found discarded in an alley. You can also purchase plywood and cut it to a different shape.
Once you have the base, measure the diameter of your leaf blower nozzle, then cut a small hole in the base about 6 in. from the edge. Thoroughly sand all edges, including the hole.
Also sand the edges of the wood anchor.

---------

Step 4: Build it! Pt. 1





1. Lay base on top of tarp. Cut tarp around the base leaving at least 3 in. of excess tarp.
2. Loosely fold tarp over top of base; there should be room for the tarp to inflate about 1 in.
3. Use overlapping layers of duct tape to adhere the tarp to the top of the base.

----

Step 5: Build it! Pt. 2






1. Cut out 1 in. x 2 in. cardboard rectangles to go around the perimeter of the base.
Rectangle size is approximate.
As for the number of rectangles, you can be extremely precise and measure the base perimeter to calculate how many rectangles to cut, or you can be approximate and cut more as you need them (my preferred method).
2. Staple the cardboard rectangles to the base so that the sides and/or corners are touching.
3. Flip the base over, and add overlapping layers of duct tape across the middle of the base.
4. Find the center point of the base and mark it.
----

Step 6: Build it! Pt. 3




1. Find the center point of the wood anchor, and match it up with the center point of the base (on the bottom over the duct tape).
2. Drill the anchor securely into the wood base.
3. Cut about 10-15 ventilation holes around the anchor and on top of the duct tape. Area of each hole should be ~ 1 sq. in.
Suggested to start with a small number of holes (~5-8) then test w/ the leaf blower to see how it floats. It should be stable and not tip to one side. If it is tipping, cut more holes on opposite side of which it is tilting.
4. Flip over the base (so that the top is up) and adhere the leaf blower nozzle to the hole w/ duct tape.
------

Step 7: Test it and Take it to Town!


Power up your leaf blower and take it for a spin! Or a straight line.
You can also turn this into a rudimentary vehicle by adding a propulsion system. One easy way is to add a fan. Another is to use PVC piping to redirect some of the leaf blower airflow behind you. I'm considering testing the PVC method.. if there is interest I will post an addendum showing how to do this.
Many thanks to this YouTube tutorial for the general overview.
Creative Commons License
This work by Jennifer Fox is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License